I've had two bad experiences shipping to Spain. I've also only shipped to Spain twice and refuse to again. Ended up loosing $300 in cards 4 years ago.Originally Posted by dahcmai
Not to mention the absurd number of fake "foil" Power 9s and Mana Drains. If certain people can fabricate these hot items as foils, I can only imagine how easy it is for them to reproduce fake beta or unlimited powers. I'd rather stay away from the Vintage format than just be plainly victimized and I am simply contended with owning pimp legacy staples.
It's usually better to buy from an established store if you are going to buy power or duals anymore. I prefer to buy things like that in person though I will trust an Ebay seller if they have a ton of good feedback (over 1000) with no negatives that seem to refer to stuff not showing or something else that's obviously not a person whining.
If you ever want a decent set of power for less than a store I do sell power there here and there. yawgmoth71 is me on Ebay. Not to be real self promoting, but I'd rather people know they can buy stuff and not get scammed from there. Ebay is good for some things, but I don't think I'd buy the high dollar stuff from overseas unless it's Europe or one of the guys who's obviously good for it. There's a couple good ones out there in Asia though.
Hi guys I have a collection full of stuff like natural order, mostly dual lands, metalworkers and other legacy staples from my storm deck that i've priced with starcitygames prices to be worth $2030 but i don't know how to best sell it on ebay cause there's stuff like duress in there as well. Without the commons it would be like 1900ish but do you guys have any advice on how i should best sell my collection? I don't know if selling the binder at Buy it now would get any buyers to buy it as I've only sold a set of fetchlands once on ebay. I'm not sure if people will buy my collection at that amount since i only have 1 feedback even if the cards are all in NM. Would posting pictures gain buyers trust?
You basically trade money for time. The more time you spend selling, the more money you can make - the more time you save, the less money you make. You're not going to get anywhere near "SCG price", unless you're talking SCG buy price.
As far as eBay, selling it playset by playset will likely net you the most money. For higher value stuff like duals, you probably would want to sell card by card. It doesn't sound like you have an eBay rating built up though, so you'd really probably have to have someone with an established rating sell for you.
MOTL is another option, but it can be a huge time sink - at least 75% of the people on there will just try to waste your time, and you probably don't have a MOTL rating anyway.
Your last and quickest option would to be to sell to a dealer, which might be your best option even though you get the least money out of it. If you go to a larger event like a GP you can go around to a few different dealers.
“It's possible. But it involves... {checks archives} Nature's Revolt, Opalescence, two Unstable Shapeshifters (one of which started as a Doppelganger), a Tide, an animated land, a creature with Fading, a Silver Wyvern, some way to get a creature into play in response to stuff, some way to get a land into play in response to stuff (a different land from the animated land), and one heck of a Rube Goldberg timing diagram.”
-David DeLaney
ahhh thanks a lot for the tips, so basically if i want to sell everything and the get the most money out of it, i should probably sell by playsets. Probably selling duals with a few others like in a batch will help me get rid of cards that are less likely to get sold alone? I mean the quality of my cards are in the exact condition i bought them from SCG in as I rarely played and sleeved them as soon as i recieved them in the mail, I'd really like to sell them for what they're worth
I'm no veteran seller, but I know as a buyer that unless I'm getting a steal, I won't buy things that are like "bayou and [4 other various rares I'm not really after]". Why would I pay 45$ for a bayou and 4 other cards I dont really need when I could just get a bayou for 40$? The only time I'd buy "batches" like that are if its 40$ for the bayou AND the other random rares I dont really want, in which case your basically just giving away those extra cards and thats bad for you.
Basically if you want to most of your money back sell things either in playsets or individually. It's going to take a lot of time, but it will get you the best return.
When I do sell stuff, to get an idea of what I will actually get for a card I check TCG player to see what stores are selling them for and then check http://www.apathyhouse.com/pricelist/trader.php or just manually search ebay for auctions that have recently sold to get a better idea. Starcity prices are usually pretty far from reality; don't expect to get those values. Quick example, just from scrolling down SCG main page I see Molten-tail masticore for 18$. I quick search on TCG player shows me dozens of other dealers willing to sell them for 12-14$ and they probably go for even less on ebay.
As a seller I've still got a lot to learn but thing I do is I don't waste effort selling anything that will go for less than 6-8$. When trading, I always try to get rid of the 1-5$ rares in exchange for larger money cards. That way I spend less time managing a bunch of small auctions and can instead focus on a few higher value ones.
No, that's not going to help. If you have cards you think won't sell for more than $1 alone (or as a playset), you're pretty much left with taking all of those not-valuable cards and putting them all in a lot by themselves.
Again, for something especially valuable and sought-after like a dual land, you don't ideally even sell as a playset - you sell as a single card.
But again, you don't have the eBay rating or eBay knowhow to be selling on eBay anyway.
If you want to know "what they're worth", check eBay completed prices or MOTL prices (MOTL gets their prices from eBay completed auctions). You can check SCG's buylist or a site like allmagiccards.com to get an idea of what dealers will buy cards for.I mean the quality of my cards are in the exact condition i bought them from SCG in as I rarely played and sleeved them as soon as i recieved them in the mail, I'd really like to sell them for what they're worth
“It's possible. But it involves... {checks archives} Nature's Revolt, Opalescence, two Unstable Shapeshifters (one of which started as a Doppelganger), a Tide, an animated land, a creature with Fading, a Silver Wyvern, some way to get a creature into play in response to stuff, some way to get a land into play in response to stuff (a different land from the animated land), and one heck of a Rube Goldberg timing diagram.”
-David DeLaney
Selling is a pain most of the time. People only buy the highly wanted items for a decent price and Ebay eats up the profits so badly due to fees and such that it's not worth selling anything under $5. There's no real good way to do it. i tend to Ebay the larger high money items and them make large lots of the rest or keep it around and trade into things I can sell.
I keep a large list of stuff tournament players don't want that sells good for me on Ebay. Then I trade like a madman giving great deals which makes them happy and makes me happy. It's a win win. Some dealers at GP's and such are great for doing that. they may not give the greatest trade ins, but it's better than what you could sell on Ebay for and they make a profit too. It works out the best doing that.
So there isn't really a way to sell the collection for what it's really worth? @ cdr: you mentioned you can check the price of what certain cards sold for on ebay would it be possible if you could give me the link to that? having trouble finding it on the ebay website.
Also isn't it better to sell for example i have 4 volcanic islands, to sell the set as 4 instead of singles since then i wouldn't have to pay 4 separate fees to ebay for 4 different posts? Or in your past experiences is it just more profitable to sell them as 1's. I think I've settled on just selling the staples that i have since they are in really high demand at the moment ie. all my blue duals natural orders, survival and LED
I found that playsets are better in a lot of cases just because people are lazy and don't want to buy single cards to make a playset.
Finding the completed auctions is fairly easy. You have to be logged into your account to see them, but when you search for an item theres a small link next to the search bar that says advanced. Just click that and there's a checkbox that says completed and you search again. It will bring up all completed auctions. the green dollar signs are what something sold for and red ones are things that didnt sell.
Depends what you mean by "what it's really worth". The highest possible price you can find someone selling a card for (eg, SCG) is not what most people would call "what it's really worth". A dealer can command a higher price when selling cards than an individual can, that's how things work. The closest you'll be able to find to a market price is eBay completed price, which is what I'd call "what it's really worth". Even then, eBay is going to take 13% in fees.
If you do a search for a card on eBay and then click "completed auctions", you can get a sense of what cards are selling for. I have software that averages completed prices for me (as does MOTL/Apathy House/etc), but you can do fine with just glancing at the results.
For eBay auctions, fees are identical whether you do four separate auctions or one - there's no fee for listing, 100% of the fees are a cut of the final value. Even if there was a fee (like with eBay fixed price), the additional profit would usually be larger than the trivial $0.50 fee.Also isn't it better to sell for example i have 4 volcanic islands, to sell the set as 4 instead of singles since then i wouldn't have to pay 4 separate fees to ebay for 4 different posts? Or in your past experiences is it just more profitable to sell them as 1's. I think I've settled on just selling the staples that i have since they are in really high demand at the moment ie. all my blue duals natural orders, survival and LED
I've found that for extremely high demand cards like duals (where people will realistically pick them up one at a time) you can get a little more on average selling them singly than as a playset. In some cases people will pay more for the convenience of a playset, so it's not a hard rule.
“It's possible. But it involves... {checks archives} Nature's Revolt, Opalescence, two Unstable Shapeshifters (one of which started as a Doppelganger), a Tide, an animated land, a creature with Fading, a Silver Wyvern, some way to get a creature into play in response to stuff, some way to get a land into play in response to stuff (a different land from the animated land), and one heck of a Rube Goldberg timing diagram.”
-David DeLaney
I've probably sold around 8 playsets of each dual and seem to do better if they are in a playset as opposed to singly, but I have a ton of feedback too and that is a world of difference when you get into higher prices I have noticed.
By the way CDR, think you could find it in your heart to show me where you got that averaging software? That would be pretty handy in my line.
Even 100% Good Feedback(way over 150 positive feedbacks) and high quality photos do NOT ensure that you are not getting punked.
I'm posting this here to warn people: Some guy named delwing.2008 from Shawinigan, QC, Kanada scams people big time. I bought 4 Candelabras, never received anything. Price was Candelabra-ish high.Never responded.After I looked at his profile again there were 20+ people who had the same problem as me.
BE AWARE OF PAYPAL RESTRICTIONS AND TRADING LAW.
Be careful if you buy sth for 250$ plus via Paypal, then the seller is required to register the Mail for tracking. If he did not do that, be very very careful.
This man is a truthspeaker! You deserve a beer - if you see me in Ghent, you may present yourself to me as The Speaker of Truths and I will buy you a beer of choice
Ebay is usually only good these days for high end items, so what i'll do is sell $10+ cards as singles, then everything $10 or less as a collection. With selling collections you'll get the best prices by listing stuff out or showing some of the best cards in the pictures so players don't confuse it for one of the millions of bulk lots online.
The problem with the bulk lots is they're usually dealers or people who really know the market so you're guaranteed not to get anything better than old draft picks or true bulk cards, so if you want a good price make sure the buyers know it's not bulk and you do have playable cards in the lot. You don't have to list every card, but list most cards worth between $2-10 if applicable. So an example would be:
"In this collection is over 3,000 magic the gathering cards from revised up until current. I'm currently downsizing my collection but don't have the time to list everything individually so my loss is your gain and you can win this whole lot
This collection includes:
2 Llawan, Cephalid Empress
1 Sol Ring (revised, MP)
1 Verdant Catacombs
4 Drowned Catacomb
3 Krosan Grip (FNM Promo)
4 Sterling Grove
2 Demonic Tutor
3 Necropotence
..(and so on)
This is not a lot! You WILL receive all the cards above with no strings attached!"
What will happen then is people go through and tally it up. Rather than pay the $25 you might get for that as a bulk lot you might get closer to 80% of their value because people know there are cards they can use for decks, cubes, whatever else and just trade/sell off the rest on their own. You won't get 100% value, but the time you lose is worth the gain.
You can try to blind auction but your numbers will be lower if you try to fake it and say things like "I bought this at a storage auction and don't know anything about magic cards so these could be worth a lot or nothing." - it simply doesn't work if you sell MTG cards, and even if you don't, your feedback probably won't be high enough to get the high prices either. I avoid these auctions unless they look realistic, and even then i only bid slightly higher than worst case scenario prices (meaning i can make most/all my money back bulking it out to my dealers if there's nothing i need from it).
Just some thoughts though to help improve how much you get per card without being eaten alive by ebay fees. I've only sold a single mtg collection (the way i described) and made $200. I sold yugioh cards and took a picture of every page in the binders and said how much was in bulk, and got nearly $400 for the whole lot. I might have gotten more if i took the time to list as singles, but the collection was around 10,000 cards so the time alone would not have made it worth it, and i had some sellers lined up to buy collections from. The fees probably also would have made it hurt more than the way i just sold it in one go.
When doing collections I normally like to start with a quick scan for the A+ stuff (duals etc) which I either put on the bay individually or hold if Ill be going to an event with dealers soon. Next comes the $5-10 stuff for the most part this goes in my trade binder so I can trade for more A+ stuff but if my goal was to get out I would also look at moving this as play sets for closer to "retail" how close would depend on how fast I wanted out.
When it comes time to move the bulk (read $1 rares + commons/uncommons) I will generally filter out all the dollar rares and put them up as a single EDH bulk rare lot for between 10cents and 20 cents each on craigslist/kijiji depending on weather they have a gold set symbol or not. Then do the same with the commons/uncommons at $10 per thousand.
I find (for me) its the best balance of time/money. Basically the goal is to put effort into maximizing the return on the good stuff and then just move the bulk into the hands of some kitchen table players at fire sale prices.
All in my advise is just to try and avoid the bay as much as possible. Its just not worth micro transacting with the current fee structure anymore.
Hey guys I have a question about ebaying. I have noticed sellers make delivery confirmation mandatory when selling outside the U.S. to orders over $50. My question is why $50? Does eBay insure under that for the seller or something. Or is more difficult to dispute when under that amount?
I have been selling a fair amount on eBay and have followed suit with the $50 thing, but would really appreciate some more insight here. Thanks guys.
The reason is fairly simple. It's a decent amount to start caring if you lose the money or not. $50 isn't such a big deal, going above that starts getting sketchy and by $200 or so, you really don't want to have to refund it. Most sellers calculate losses into the price for scammers and people who just aren't worth dealing with and are easier just to refund and block. Kind of like how Wal Mart raises prices on things that are stolen a lot.
Delivery Confirmation is something I have no idea why anyone wouldn't use. It costs 79 cents and tracks the package. It's cheaper to not use it, but stupid. I guess some sellers still want to save the pennies. It is a lot more for overseas, but still worth it. I don't ship overseas anymore, but I am sure $50 is about where it starts getting too expensive to use the delivery notification on cheaper items.
I've been buying MTG cards on Ebay a lot lately and never had a problem until yesterday. When I received the card, it have creases in several places. The seller sent it in a bubble wrapped envelope BUT the card was in a regular Ultra Pro sleeve and taped it to a cardboard.
I told the guy about the issue and all he could do was refund me "a couple of bucks". Should I take the couple of bucks? I feel like I should deserve a full refund. BTW, it was an Aether Vial.
He's likely trying to rip you off - there's no way a card in a bubble mailer mysteriously developed creases.
At the very least, you can file a dispute as "condition not as described" and send it back to him with tracking, and he'll have to refund you the full price. I've never had to deal with that particular process, but you can look it up on eBay/PayPal.
If you want to keep it (ie, it's still tournament playable or you can use it in Commander), you can tell him to refund the difference between what you paid and what you think the fair value of a card in that condition is or you file a dispute as above.
“It's possible. But it involves... {checks archives} Nature's Revolt, Opalescence, two Unstable Shapeshifters (one of which started as a Doppelganger), a Tide, an animated land, a creature with Fading, a Silver Wyvern, some way to get a creature into play in response to stuff, some way to get a land into play in response to stuff (a different land from the animated land), and one heck of a Rube Goldberg timing diagram.”
-David DeLaney
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